Weeks 2 and 3 in Ethiopia

NOTE:  WE WERE LOCKED OUT OF OUR BLOG DURING THE REMAINDER OF OUR STAY IN ETHIOPIA.  WE ARE NOW IN CAPE TOWN AND HAVE ACCESS TO OUR BLOG AND OUR ABILITY TO POST ON IT.

 

Getting ready for Christmas, enjoying the holiday, and visiting sites in Addis took up our time.  Joan was the official cookie baker and she spent many days baking and decorating cookies – with Chakiso’s help, of course!  Paper is hard to come by in Ethiopia and hence there is no gift wrapping paper.  So we had to be inventive, using magazine covers, newspaper, and colored plastic bags. Christmas was so exciting with a 4 year old! James and Shirley invited about 30 of their friends and their kids to a Christmas dinner and party.  James grilled 2 small turkeys that came frozen from France (at $75 each).  Ex-pats can get what they want in many cases, if they are willing to pay for it.  We both enjoyed the ex-pats at the party – quite a diverse group.  They originated from countries such as India, UK, Belgium, France, US, and other parts of Africa. All were working for NGOS, such as Save the Children, a birth control distributor, and one woman and her family were leaving for the Gates Foundation in Seattle. One common theme is that they move around a lot and often know each other from former jobs in other countries. Shirley had a lot of things for the kids to do – crafts, streamers to throw into the trees, and a snowman piñata that she made. For Rob, the highlight was the rocket fireworks, especially the first one that took off over the house across the road and exploded over the Iranian Residence next door. 

James and Shirley had hired a driver for 2 weeks and that made it easy for us to begin to explore Addis.  On Tuesday, we went through thick traffic to Entoto Mountain (on the edge of Addis).  There we saw the Maryan Church and the somewhat simple palace of one of the 19^th century emperors.  Observing people engaged in their normal lifestyle is especially fascinating.  For example, we observed women wood carriers who go into the forest on the mountain and gather wood and put it in large bundles and carry it on their backs down the mountain to the city to sell for cooking fires. We visited a compound set up by a local NGO to create an alternative income-generating project for the women that involved making and selling small crafts.  There was also a day care and school for their children.

The next stop was the National Museum with its rich collection of artifacts dating back 4 million years. Here we saw a replica of Lucy, one of the earliest bipeds discovered in Ethiopia. The final stop that day was the Holy Trinity Church (Ethiopian Orthodox) with its frescoes done by Ethiopian painters. On the grounds are elaborate tombs, many of which are government ministers killed when the Derg overthrew the monarchy in the early 1970s. As we returned home, we passed the US Embassy with signs that ban taking any photos of the building and grounds. 

The following day, we went to Addis Ababa University to visit the Ethnological Museum. It is housed in the former palace of Emperor Haile Selassie and contains a large gallery of old and new art, a large library, and an incredibly well done history of Ethiopia based on traditions of the many tribes in the country as well as the many forms of livelihood of Ethiopian people, historically to the present. It is set up in 3 areas – childhood, adulthood and death.  You can also see the Emperor’s bedroom and bath.  One guide book claims this is the best museum in all of Africa! We really loved it too.

Driving through Addis, you are continuously struck by the juxtaposition of old and new buildings, including high rise office building. There are areas of very poor housing and some newer housing construction set behind razor-wired fences. The streets are lined with small shops. There are many, many billboards and walls pasted with handbills. The hundreds of blue & white 9 passenger Toyota minivans provide most of the public transportation,  5-15 cents per ride.

On Thursday, we went to St. George’s Church. He is the patron saint of Ethiopia. The small museum had well displayed robes, crosses, chalices and art depicting St. George slaying the dragon. Next stop was the silver and gold jewelry stores near the Piazza. Unfortunately, we both ended the day with gastrointestinal problems.  Joan’s got worse and she ended up at the Swedish Clinic the next day where she was diagnosed with ameobic dysentery and given powerful drugs to rid her system of these nasty parasites. She is nearly recovered now, but I don’t recommend that anyone seek out this experience.